3D
Foam:
Foam that is used to
add dimension to an embroidery pattern that is typically
used on caps. The 3D Foam is placed on the topside
of the pattern and stitched over with shortened stitches
to cut the Foam. The excessive foam is then pulled
away from the embroidery giving a 3D appearance. 3D
Foams are available in various thickness.
Appliqué:
1) Decoration or trimming
cut from one piece of fabric and stitched to another,
usually with a satin stitch, to add dimension and
texture. If the appliqué occupies a significant
amount of the design, the stitch count can be reduced.
2) In Schiffli embroidery, an embroidered motif is
usually cut away from the base fabric and then stitched
onto the finished product.
Arm Machine:
Embroidery machine
that has an arm or cylinder that the hook and bobbin
are mounted in. Allows the use of special frames for
embroidering caps, socks, inside pockets, etc. The
cylinder-shaped arm allows goods to curve around the
cylinder for embroidery.
Automatic Color Change:
The ability of a multi-needle
embroidery machine to follow a command to change to
another specified needle with a different color thread
in it. Many embroidery heads have as many as ten needles
allowing the digitizer to program the use of ten different
thread colors without stopping the machine.
Backing:
Woven or non-woven
material used underneath the item being embroidered
to provide support and stability. Sometimes referred
to as a stabilizer in the home embroidery market.
Backing can be large enough to be hooped with the
item being embroidered, or placed between the machine
needle plate and the hooped garment. Available in
various weights and in various types of material that
can be either in precut sheets or rolls. Backings
can also be cutaway, tear-away, or specialty. See
also Toppings & 3D-foam.
Bean Stitch:
Three stitches placed
back and forth between two points. Often used for
outlining because it provides a bolder stitch appearance
than a run stitch and requires fewer stitches than
a satin stitch
Bird Nesting:
Collection of thread
between the fabric being sewn and the needle plate
that generally causes thread breaks and sewing problems.
Bird nesting can be caused by improper thread tension
(needle thread tension too loose); machine not threaded
properly; bobbin case not installed properly; excessive
flagging; and poor digitizing.
Bobbin:
Small spool or reel
that is wound with the thread used on lockstitch machines.
Bobbins can be wound on the sewing machine or come
pre-wound from the thread supplier. Generally, pre-wound
bobbins contain much higher yardage than machine wound
bobbins allowing for fewer bobbin changes. The most
common bobbin size for embroidery machines is a style
"L" bobbin, even though other special large
hook machines may use style "M" bobbins.
One of the most common pre-wound bobbins used is a
T-16 (V-15) CF polyester bobbin.
Bobbin Case:
Round assembly that
applies tension to the bobbin thread and holds the
bobbin in the machine. The latch mechanism locks the
bobbin case into the hook. It is important that the
embroidery machine operator be trained to properly
install the bobbin case in the machine to minimize
costly repairs of the machine. After the bobbin case
in properly positioned to the bobbin case holder in
the hook, it should then snap on the spindle when
it is fully loaded. Most embroidery machines use an
"L" size bobbin and bobbin case; even though
sometimes larger hook styles are used.
Bobbin Tension:
Bobbin thread tension
should be set so very little thread is consumed in
each stitch. Therefore, the bobbin thread is tight
enough to consistently hold the needle thread down
on the underneath side of the embroidered item.
Bridge Machine:
Embroidery machine
with two shafts, one for the hook assembly and one
for the needle assembly. Sewing heads are suspended
from a beam allowing for larger sewing fields than
an arm machine. Bridge machines are accessible from
both back and the front of the machine through the
"bridge".
Buckram:
Coarse, woven backing
fabric that is usually very stiff. It is used to stabilize
fabric for stitching and commonly used in caps to
hold the front panel with the embroidery pattern erect.
Cap Frames:
Specialized embroidery
frames (hoops) designed to hold finished caps for
embroidering. Cap frames are available for flatbed
machines where the finished cap flattened for sewing
and for use on arm or cylinder bed machines for sewing
the cap in it's natural curved shape
Chainstitch:
Stitch that resembles
a chain link formed with one thread fed from the bottom
side of the fabric. Done on a manual or computerized
machine with a hook that functions like a needle.
Check Spring:
Part of the needle
thread tension assembly or tensioner that assists
in properly controlling the needle thread to set a
good stitch with minimum sewing interruptions.
Chenille:
Form of embroidery
in which a loop (moss) stitch is formed on the topside
of the fabric. Uses heavy yarns of wool, cotton or
acrylic. Created by a chainstitch machine that has
been adjusted to form this stitch type. Also known
as loop piling.
Column Stitch:
Formed by closely placed
zigzag stitches that are often used to form borders.
Also commonly known as satin stitch
Complex Fill:
Refers to a digitizing
capability that allows areas to be designated as voids
at the same time the design's edges, or perimeter
points, are defined. The design can thus be digitized
as one fill area, instead of being broken down into
multiple sections.
Condensed Fill:
Method of digitizing
in which a design is saved in a skeletal form. A proportionate
number of stitches may later be placed between defined
points after scale, density, and stitch lengths in
a design may be changed.
Cylinder Spring:
Refers to machines
with "cylinder" beds. The hook assembly
is housed in a cylinder-shaped arm, allowing goods
to curve around the cylinder for embroidery.
Design:
Stitches that compose
a pattern or monogram
Design Library/Catalog:
A computer program
that catalogs a collection of digitized designs kept
by embroidery shops allowing an embroiderer to access
the design by subject, stitch count, number of colors,
or icon.
Digitize:
The computerized method of
converting artwork into a series of commands to be
read by an embroidery machine's computer. Digitizing
is extremely important and will determine the quality
of the finished embroidery. Every action of the embroidery
machine is controlled by the digitized program including
the movement of the pantograph to form various stitches,
thread changes, thread trims, and many other functions.
Digitizing Tablet:
A computer-aided design
device used by digitizers to plot needle penetration
for embroidery designs. Typically, a pencil drawing
of the design is enlarged and then taped to this tablet.
The digitizer then uses a mouse to select stitch types,
shapes, underlay, and actual needle penetrations.
Disk Reader:
An external or internal
device used to read the digitized program that determines
the embroidery machine movements.
Editing:
Changing aspects of a design
device via a computerized editing program. Most programs
allow the user to scale designs up or down, edit stitches
block by block; merge lettering with the design; move
aspects of the design around; and combine designs
or edit machine commands.
Emblem:
Embroidered design with a finished
edge; commonly an insignia of identification; usually
worn on the outer clothing. Historically, an emblem
carried a motto or verse or suggested a moral lesson.
Also know as a crest or patch.
Embroidery:
Embroidery is "thread
art" used to embellish a garment, hat or some
other product by adding a sewn pattern. Generally,
this sewn pattern includes a design and can also include
lettering and/or monograms.
Embroidery Machine:
Today, embroidery machines
can be defined as computer driven machines that move
a pantograph with hooped items in various directions
to form different stitches. Embroidery machines can
be single-head units or come in multiples of heads
with multiple needles per head for production embroidery
applications.
Embroidery Point:
Unit of measurement in embroidery
in which 10 points equals 1mm or 1 point equals .1
mm
Expanded Format:
A design program in which individual
stitches in a design have been specifically digitized
for a certain size. Designs punched in this format
cannot generally be enlarged or reduced more than
10 percent to 20 percent without distortion because
stitch count remains constant.
Fabric Grin Through:
Where the fabric is seen through
the embroidery design either in the middle of the
pattern or on the edge.
Fill Stitches:
One of the three most common
stitches used in embroidery along with the run stitches
and satin stitches. Fill stitches are used to cover
large areas and they generally have a flat look. Altering
the angle, length and direction of the stitched pattern
can create different types of fill patterns.
Finishing:
Processes performed after embroidery
is complete. Includes trimming loose threads, cutting
or tearing away excess backing, removing topping,
cleaning any stains, pressing or steaming to remove
wrinkles or hoop marks; and packing for sale or shipment.
Flagging:
The up and down motion of the
material with the needle that is caused by improper
hooping, the presser foot not being properly adjusted
(too much clearance with needle plate), and improper
fabric stabilization (incorrect backing). Named because
of its resemblance to a waving flag. Flagging generally
causes improper needle loop formation that can lead
to skipped stitches and thread breakage. Flagging
can also negatively impact the appearance of the finished
product resulting in poor design registration.
Flat Embroidery:
Embroidery that is cut in panels
or patches that is framed in hoops on a flat surface
above the embroidery machine's hook assembly.
Frame:
Holding device for goods to
be embroidered. Ensures stability of the goods during
the sewing process. May employ a number of means for
maintaining stability during the embroidery process,
including clamps, vacuum devices, magnets, or springs.
Frame Sash:
Part of the pantograph to hold
the frames. Also called a sash. Varieties of sash
types include: border, frame, tubular, cap, and sock.
Framing Press:
Machine used to aid the framing
or hooping process.
Gapping:
Where the fabric is seen through
the embroidery design either in the middle of the
pattern or on the edge.
Hook Assembly:
Stitch forming devise used
to interlock the needle thread with the bottom thread.
The hook assembly consists of the following components:
hook base, bobbin case holder, retainer or gib, deflector
plate, bobbin case, and bobbin.
Hoop:
Device made from plastic, metal,
or wood that grips the fabric tightly between an inner
and outer ring and attaches to the machine's pantograph.
Machine hoops are designed to push the fabric to the
bottom of the inner ring and hold it against the machine
bed for sewing.
Hooping:
Also called "framing".
The process where the item to be embroidered is loaded
into a hoop. This hoop will later be loaded or attached
to the pantograph for sewing.
Hooping Board:
Board designed to hold the
outer portion of the hoop while the goods to be embroidered
are placed over the board to be hooped. Once the goods
are aligned and placed correctly over the outer hoop,
the operator inserts the inner portion of the hoop.
Then the hoop is removed from the Hooping Board and
attached to the pantograph for sewing. Helps ensure
uniform placement of the hoop onto the material.
Jumbo Rotary Hook:
Rotary hook, which holds a
bobbin case with a much larger thread capacity than
a standard hook.
Jump Stitch:
Movement of the pantograph
and rotation of the sewing head without the needle
moving up and down. Used to move from one point in
a design to another. Also, used to create stitches
that are longer than the machine would normally allow.
Lettering:
Embroidery using letters or
words. Often called "keyboard lettering."
Usually computer generated either on the machine or
a stand-alone computer.
Locking Stitch:
Commonly refers to a series
of three to four very small stitches (1 mm or less)
either just before a trim or at the beginning of sewing
following a thread trim. Also referred to as Tie In
or Tie Off stitches. Used to prevent the stitching
from unraveling after the embroidery is completed.
Lockstitch:
The name used for a stitch
that is formed with a needle and bobbin thread. The
needle thread is interlocked with the bobbin thread
to form a stitch. Also referred to as ISO4915, stitch
number 301. On apparel sewing applications other than
embroidery, a well-balanced lockstitch will use the
same amount of needle thread as bobbin thread. On
embroidery applications, this is not true because
you never want to see the bobbin thread on the topside
of the sewn product. Therefore the needle thread is
held on the underneath side by the bobbin thread.
Lockstitch Machine:
Machine that forms a stitch
using a needle and hook assembly. Most embroidery
machines are lockstitch machines.
Logo:
Name, symbol or trademark of
a company or organizations. Short for logotype.
Looping:
Loops on the surface of embroidery
generally cause by poor top tension or tension problems.
Typically occurs when polyester top thread has been
improperly tensioned. Looping can also occur as the
result of a skipped stitch.
Low Speed Function:
Setting on the machine that
allows the machine to run at a lower speed than that
set by the speed control knob.
Machine Language:
The codes and format used by
different machine manufactures within the embroidery
industry. Common formats include Barudan, Brother,
Fortran, Happy, Marco, Meistergram, Melco, Pfaff,
Stellar, Tajima, Toyota, Ultramatic, and ZSK. Most
digitized systems can save designs in these languages
so the embroidery machine can read the computer disk.
Marking:
Marking of goods to serve as
an aid in positioning the frame and referencing the
needle start points.
Mirror:
A program menu option that
allows reverse imaging of a pattern to be sewn.
Modular:
Machine system where many separate
stitching heads or configurations of heads are controlled
by a central computer.
Monogram:
Embroidered design of one or
more letters, usually the initials in a name.
Needle:
The stitch forming devise that
carries the thread through the fabric so it can be
interlocked with a bobbin thread. Sewing machine needles
generally have nine basic parts including the butt,
shank, shoulder, blade, groove, scarf or spot, eye,
point, and tip. Needles are available with various
points. These include: Sharp points for piercing heavy,
tightly woven fabrics; Ball pointed needles for sewing
knits; and, A variety of specialty points for sewing
leather and vinyl. Needles also come in many sizes.
Two of the most common needle size systems are the
metric size (i.e.,60, 70, 75, 80, 90); and the Singer
numbering system (i.e.,9, 12, 14, 16).
Needle Bar:
Bar that carries the needle
up and down so a stitch can be formed. Each embroidery
machine head can have up to 15 needle bars that can
be selected to form the embroidery stitch pattern.
Needle Plate:
The metal plate located above
the hook assembly of an embroidery machine. This plate
has a hole in the center through which the needle
travels to reach the hook and form a stitch. Also
know as a throat plate.
Network:
1) To link embroidery machines
via a central computer and disk drive system.
2) A group of machines linked via
a central computer.
Offset:
The ability to move the pantograph
out of the stitching area with a specific movement
and then return to the original point. Used for placing
appliqués.
Origin:
The starting point of your
design.
Pantographs:
A part of the embroidery machine
that rests on the tabletop and moves the hoop to form
the embroidery pattern.
Pantograph:
The bar, rack, or holder on
which frames or hoops are attached. The pantograph
moves in X and Y directions to form the embroidery
design, controlled electronically or mechanically
depending on the machine.
Paper Tape:
Media that is made from a continuous
reel of paper or Mylar tape containing x-y coordinate
information used to control the pantograph movement.
Computer disks on newer machines have replaced paper
tapes. Pattern storage media that is made from a continuous
reel of paper or Mylar tape containing x-y coordinate
information used to control the pantograph movement.
Computer disks on newer machines have replaced paper
tapes.
Pencil Rub:
A low-cost way of producing
a "sample" of an embroidery design. Accomplished
by placing a piece of tracing paper over a sewn pattern
and then rubbing lightly with a pencil to produce
an impression of the embroidery.
Presser Foot:
A metal ring around the needle
that touches the fabric inside the hoop while the
needle is down and beginning to rise to form a needle
loop. The main function of the presser foot is to
hold the fabric stationary until the hook point catches
the thread loop formed by the needle. It helps to
minimize flagging and therefore indirectly aids in
loop formation.
Pre-Tensioner:
Thread tension assembly that
is located before that main tension assembly in the
thread path. The function of the pre-tensioner is
to apply a light amount of tension in order to remove
any kinks in the thread prior to entering the main
tensioner.
Puckering:
Result of the fabric being
gathered by the stitches. Causes include incorrect
density, loose hooping insufficient backing, or incorrect
thread tensions.
Punching:
Conversion of artwork into
a series of commands to be read by an embroidery machine's
computer. Derived from an earlier method in paper
tapes or Jacquards punched with holes controlled the
movement of the pantograph and other commands. While
still capable of producing paper tape, most computerized
digitizing systems now store this information on a
disk format.
Push and Pull Compensation:
A degree of distortion built
into a design by the digitizer to compensate for the
push or pull on the fabric caused by the embroidery
stitches. This can help prevent a digitized circle
from looking like an egg shape when sewn out. Generally,
it is necessary to extend horizontal elements and
reduce vertical elements.
Registration:
Correct registration is achieved
when all stitches and design elements line up correctly.
Poor registration can occur when the product being
embroidered had not been hooped properly, improper
digitizing, and excessive flagging
Repeat:
Layout used for making emblems
or designs on a fabric span that are repeated at regular
intervals.
Rotate Pattern:
Program parameter that rotates
the design in 90-degree increments counterclockwise,
with or without mirror imaging the design.
Run Stitch or Running Stitch:
Made when a single stitch is
formed between two points used for outlining, underlay,
and fine detail. Also known as a running stitch or
walk stitch.
SPI:
Abbreviation for Stitches Per
Inch. A system for measuring density or the amount
of satin stitches in an inch of embroidery. See also
Stitch Density. Most of today's embroidery machines
measure needle movement in .1 mm increments. Therefore
a thread space of 4 would be .4 mm in length.
Scale:
Program parameter used to expand
or condense the size of the design without changing
the number of stitches. A separate scale parameter
is used for each direction.
Scanning:
Scanners convert designs into
a computer format allowing the digitizer to use even
the most primitive artwork without recreating the
design. Many of digitizing systems allow the digitizer
to transfer the design directly into the digitizing
program without using any intermediary software.
Short Stitch:
A digitizing technique that
places shorter stitches in curves or corners to avoid
an unnecessary bulky build-up of stitches.
Specialty Fill:
Allows the digitizer to produce
special fill stitch patterns with a "relief"
or motif design within the fill-stitch area.
Speed Control:
Knob on the embroidery machine
that allows the sewing speed to be adjusted up or
down. On most modern embroidery machines, the speed
at which the pattern is stitched varies according
to the length of the stitch. Shorter stitches are
made at higher SPM and longer stitches are made at
slower SPM. This is necessary due to limitations of
the movement of the pantograph and is also determined
by the number of heads and/or hoops being driven by
the machine.
SPM:
Abbreviation for Stitches Per
Minute that normally is referring to the running speed
of the embroidery machine. Typical embroidery machine
speeds can vary but generally will be between 500
to 1000 SPM.
Stitch Density:
Refers to the number of stitches
used to give proper coverage of the pattern without
creating a thick, hard area in the embroidery that
may be uncomfortable to the consumer
Stitch Editing:
Digitizing feature that allows
one or more stitches in a pattern to be deleted or
altered.
Stitchback:
Sewing function that traces
back through a design so skipped stitches and thread
breaks can be repaired.
Stock Designs:
Digitized generic embroidery
designs that are readily available at a cost below
that of custom-digitized designs.
Tackle Twill:
Letters or numbers cut from
polyester or rayon twill fabric that are commonly
used for athletic teams and organizations. Tackle
twill appliqué's attached to a garment have
an adhesive backing that tacks in place; the edges
of the appliqué's are then zigzag stitched.
Tape Reader:
A device attached to an embroidery
machine that enables the machine to read an embroidery
design from 8-channel paper computer tapes.
Tatami Stitch:
Series of running stitches
used to cover large areas. Different fill patterns
can be created by varying the length, angle or repeating
sequence of the stitches. Also called fill stitches
Tear away Backing:
A non-woven material placed
under the fabric being embroidered to add stability
to the fabric. Once the pattern is completed, this
backing can then be torn off the design due to the
needle penetrations. Typically used on more stable
fabrics such as woven goods. When choosing a tear
away backing, you should test to make sure it tears
properly. If it doesn't tear easily enough, it may
pull out some of the stitches. If it doesn't tear
cleanly, it can leave an ugly, ragged edge. If the
backing tears too easily, it may not provide enough
support for the embroidery pattern.
Tension:
Refers to the amount of tension
applied to the threads by the sewing machine, which
can be adjusted. Many embroiderers use the 2/3 Rule
meaning that if you look at the underside of the embroidery
after it has been stitched, that you should see approximately
2/3 needle thread to 1/3 bobbin thread. Normally this
is easy to do because most embroiderers use a white
bobbin thread. Loosening or tightening the needle
and bobbin tensions can accomplish this. Proper machine
thread tension is critical to quality embroidery.
Tension Assembly:
Device used to apply tension
to the needle thread to form a stitch. Consists of
a tension post with take-up spring attached, tension
discs, tension release disc, tension spring and tension
nut.
Tensioner:
Are the devices on the front
of the machine head that controls the tension on the
needle thread. Each needle and thread position has
its own Tensioner and all of them should be set as
close as possible to get quality stitching. The thread
tension assembly normally consists of a post, thread
tension knob, tension spring and two tension discs.
When the thread tension knob is turned clockwise,
it screws down on the post compressing the tension
spring on the tension discs. This applies more pressure
on the needle thread that is sandwiched between the
two tension discs and is against the post. More tension
will pull more needle thread from the underside allowing
more bobbin thread to be seen.
Thread:
Embroidery can be sewn with
many types and sizes of threads depending on the desired
finished appearance. Embroidery threads are commonly
made from rayon, polyester, cotton and metallics.
Rayon threads are generally made with a twisted multifilament
construction and have a high sheen. Polyester threads
can be made in three different thread constructions
including a twisted multifilament, air entangled and
spun construction. Obviously, cotton threads are only
made in a spun construction. Both spun polyester and
spun cotton thread have a "matte" or low
sheen appearance. Rayon and Polyester filament threads
have a high sheen. Polyester is stronger than Rayon
and has superior color fastness and abrasion / chemical
resistance. Metallics are filament threads that have
the highest luster and are formed with a synthetic
core wrapped in metal foil. Generally metallic threads
do not sew as well as polyester or rayon threads.
The most common ticket size for rayon or polyester
embroidery threads is a No. 40, however other sizes
are available. VARDHMAN's Signature polyester embroidery
thread comes in a variety of sizes including a No.
40, 30, 20, 10 and 3004 used for serging appliqués.
Thread Break Detector:
Device that detects thread
breakage and stops the machine automatically allowing
the operator to rethread the needle and restart the
machine. On multi-head embroidery machines, when the
needle thread breaks on one head, all the machines
stop. Therefore, using a thread that will minimize
thread breakage is recommended to optimize stitching
time.
Thread Break Indicator:
Small light on the front of
the sewing head that flashes when a thread break is
detected.
Thread Clippers:
Small spring loaded scissors
designed to be operated with just the thumb and forefinger.
Used to clip the thread.
Tie In Stitches:
Small stitches used at the
beginning of a sewing cycle, particularly on satin
stitches, to prevent the thread from pulling out of
the embroidery.
Tie Off Stitches:
Small stitches, usually about
1 mm in length that "lock" the stitches
in the fabric to prevent the stitch from unraveling
when the thread is trimmed. Without Tie off stitches
the thread can potentially unravel and destroy the
embroidery. They are particularly necessary when making
satin stitches wider than 1.2mm, as satin stitches
have a tendency to unravel more easily than running
or fill stitches.
Topping:
Materials hooped or placed
on top of fabric that have definable nap or surface
texture, such as corduroy and terry cloth, prior to
embroidery. It provides a smooth surface so that the
stitches can be laid down properly and prevents the
wale or nap from interfering with proper stitch appearance.
Includes a variety of substances, such as plastic
wrap, water-soluble "foil" and open-weave
fabric that has been chemically treated to disintegrate
with the application of heat. Also known as facing.
Trimmers:
Thread trimming device located
under the needle plate in the embroidery machine used
to automatically cut the needle and bobbins threads
before the design jumps from one area to another or
performs a color change. This trimming is done when
the needle is out of the work and the take-up is near
the top of its stroke.
Trimming:
Operation in the finishing
process that involves trimming the reverse and top
sides of the embroidery, including jump stitches and
backing.
Tubular Embroidery:
Embroidery produced on a cylinder
bed embroidery machine that allows tubular fabric
or pre-assembled garments (i.e. sleeves). Allows sewing
a part or the garment after it has been assembled,
as compared to using a flatbed machine to sew fronts
or sleeves prior to assembly the garment.
Underlay Stitches:
Stitches in a design that are
put down before the design stitches; used to stabilize
the fabric or raise the design so that the fine detailing
is not lost.
Variable Sizing:
Ability to scale a design to different
sizes.
Verify:
Sample Sew-out of a new embroidery design to
make sure the pattern is correct.
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